Sewing a Scrappy Summer Dress: Chalk and Notch Bora

pattern reviews wardrobe planning
TomKat Stitchery Whitney Chalk and Notch Bora Dress made with Mulitcolored Linen fabric

After making two garments from this colorful floral linen, I was left with an assortment of oddly shaped pieces and one question: Could I squeeze out one more garment?

My original plan called for a different dress, but then Chalk and Notch released the Bora Dress. Its paneled construction made it a surprisingly practical choice for my limited fabric, and the raised waistline, princess seams, and A-line skirt offered a silhouette unlike anything else in my summer wardrobe.

The Bora became the final piece in my scrappy summer capsule—and one of my favorite makes from the entire project. I was able to cut the dress, bodice lining, and hem facings from my remaining linen without piecing a single pattern piece.

Read on for my full Chalk and Notch Bora Dress review, including fabric, fit, and sewing details, or watch the video below to see how it all came together.

 

The Chalk and Notch Bora Dress

I had originally selected a Seamwork pattern for the dress in this module. Then the Chalk and Notch Bora Dress was released, I fell in love with it, and my plans quickly changed.

The Bora includes both a tank-style bodice and a statement sleeve. You can also choose an above-the-knee skirt or a longer version that reaches close to maxi length.

The design features princess seams, a lined bodice, an invisible back zipper, and an A-line paneled skirt. The waistline rises beneath the bust at the center front and then curves down toward the sides. That shaping gives the dress much more visual interest than a traditional straight waist seam.

There are center-front and center-back seams along with the other bodice and skirt panels. The center-back seam is necessary for the zipper, but the center-front pieces could potentially be cut on the fold if you wanted a cleaner front and had enough fabric.

The pattern also includes a hem facing, which I used for my dress. There is an option to cut the panels on the bias for a slightly different fit that follows the curves more closely. The instructions recommend skipping the hem facing when using the bias layout and sewing a narrow hem instead.

 

Does the Bora Dress Include Cup Sizes?

One of my favorite features of this pattern is its separate cup sizing. The Bora includes A, B, C, and D cup options, with a separate print-at-home file for each cup size.

I made a size 12 with the D-cup bodice. Having that cup option meant I could start with a shape that already accommodated my bust instead of making a more involved full-bust adjustment.

The separate files were also convenient because I only needed to print the D-cup version. I appreciate not having to sort through multiple cup-size lines on the same pattern piece.

 

Sewing a Dress from Leftover Fabric

Cutting this dress was probably the most stressful part of the entire project—not because the pattern was difficult, but because I was working with the scraps left after making two other linen garments.

I had already used this floral linen for my hacked Vernon Shirt and my Cashmerette Elmwood Skirt. I pattern-matched those garments very carefully, especially around the skirt. When I reached the Bora Dress, I no longer had enough fabric to be quite so particular.

Fortunately, the floral is an abstract print, and the dress has multiple panels that naturally break up the design. I paid attention to the placement of the most noticeable motifs, but I did not attempt to match the print across every seam.

That is one of the compromises that sometimes comes with scrap-busting. The goal shifts from making every detail perfect to making thoughtful decisions with the fabric you have.

Despite the limited yardage, I was able to cut the entire dress, including the bodice lining and hem facings, from the same linen. I did not have to piece any sections together, which felt like a major victory after having to piece a waistband and pocket on one of the other garments in this capsule.

 

Can You Sew a Paneled Dress from Fabric Scraps?

A dress with multiple panels can be a surprisingly good choice for leftover fabric. Smaller pattern pieces may fit into areas of fabric that would not accommodate a large bodice or full skirt cut on the fold.

Before cutting, lay out every piece and experiment with different arrangements. Prioritize the most visible areas first, check the direction of your print, and remember to include lining or facing pieces in your plan.

You may have to let go of perfect pattern matching, especially with a busy print. In this dress, the paneled design helps the print feel intentional even without matching every seam.

 

My Bora Dress Fit Adjustments

I treated this first Bora as a wearable muslin, but it required surprisingly few adjustments.

I shortened the dress by a total of 2½ inches. I removed one inch at the waist using the adjustment lines on the skirt panels. This brought the raised waistline to the right place on my body without changing the bodice.

I removed another 1½ inches approximately five inches above the bottom of the skirt. Shortening it there allowed me to preserve the original hem and use the included hem facing without altering its shape.

The finished dress hits just above my knee, which is exactly where I wanted it.

 

How Does the Bora Dress Fit Through the Shoulders?

The only additional change I might make next time is shortening the straps by approximately ā…œ inch. They are only slightly too long, but they occasionally begin to slip toward the edges of my shoulders because of the wider front and back neckline.

I do not plan to alter the straps on this version immediately. Instead, I can add small bra carriers inside them. A crocheted thread loop and tiny clear snap will wrap around each bra strap and keep the dress straps securely in place.

The fabric may also draw up slightly after its first wash, which could solve the issue without any alteration.

Everywhere else, the dress fits beautifully.

 

Why The Chalk and Notch Bora Works for My Shape

I am 5 feet 2 inches tall with a short, high torso, and I am fairly straight through the waist and hips. The raised, curved waistline on the Bora gives the illusion that my torso is longer because it does not create a strong horizontal line directly at my natural waist.

The A-line skirt also adds some shape below the waist. On my straighter figure, that creates a subtle suggestion of an hourglass silhouette and balances my proportions.

This is why it helps to look beyond the measurements when selecting a sewing pattern. Think about where the pattern creates horizontal lines, where it adds volume, and how those design details will interact with your proportions.

A pattern does not have to emphasize your natural shape. It can also help create the visual proportions you prefer.

 

How Difficult Is the Chalk and Notch Bora Dress?

The Bora has several seams, a lined bodice, princess shaping, and an invisible zipper, but it came together relatively quickly. I would place it in the confident-beginner to intermediate range, depending on your experience with those techniques.

The multiple panels require careful labeling and organization, especially if you are using a busy print. Still, the seams also provide more opportunities to refine the fit and make efficient use of smaller pieces of fabric.

This was not my first Chalk and Notch pattern, but sewing the Bora reminded me how much I appreciate the company’s drafting and cup-size options. It already has me looking through the rest of the pattern collection and wondering what I should make next.

 

Completing My Summer Capsule Wardrobe

The Bora Dress completes my second summer module, but it also works with pieces from my other modules. The topper created specifically for this group looks like it was made for the dress—because it was! Several toppers from my other modules also coordinate with it, giving me more ways to wear this one garment.

 

Most importantly, I did not buy fabric I loved and then allow the leftovers to disappear into my stash. I used them to build a practical, colorful wardrobe that will be worn throughout the summer and on future warm-weather trips.

 

Will I Make the Chalk and Notch Bora Dress Again?

Absolutely. I already have another version planned.

I have a bright citron-yellow linen that I purchased locally for around $10 per yard. Since I have approximately 4½ yards, I should have enough to make the Bora with the statement sleeves and longer skirt.

I am planning to turn it into my birthday dress. My birthday is in February, and I will be in Florida, so the longer linen version should be perfect for the trip. I will probably wait until January to sew it, when making a bright summer dress feels like a welcome escape from the cold, gray Indiana winter.

 

Final Thoughts

This project brought together everything I wanted from my scrappy summer capsule. I used fabric I already loved, made something completely different from my first two linen garments, and found a dress pattern that works beautifully with my proportions.

The biggest lesson is that leftover fabric does not have to become an afterthought. When you plan your colors carefully, save useful scraps, and remain flexible about pattern choice and print placement, those remnants can become some of the most wearable pieces in your wardrobe.

Now all that beautiful fabric is out of my stash, in my closet, and ready to be worn. I cannot think of a better ending for this summer sewing project.

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