5 Tips for Sewing with Viscose Spandex Jersey + My Summery Dress

Looking for a knit fabric that drapes beautifully and feels dreamy to wear? Viscose spandex jersey might just be your new favorite! I recently made a gorgeous knit dress with this fabric and had such a great experience that I wanted to share some practical sewing tips for getting the best results. And don’t forget—you can download KNITS: Tips and Tricks for Beautiful Garments if you want to dig even deeper into sewing stretchy fabrics.  Read on or watch here for all the details:

🧵 What Is Viscose Spandex Jersey?

Viscose (aka rayon) is a semi-synthetic fiber made from wood pulp through a chemical process. When blended with spandex and knit into a jersey fabric, it creates a fabric that’s smooth, drapey, and just a little weighty—in all the right ways.

This heavier fiber offers gorgeous drape, hugs curves softly, and wicks moisture slightly better than cotton jersey, making it extra comfortable in warm weather. It's ideal for flowy garments like dresses, drapey tops, and swishy skirts.

🧷 5 Tips for Sewing with Viscose Spandex Jersey

1. Pre-wash—and yes, I use the dryer

Viscose spandex loves to grow as you wear it, so I machine wash and dry mine to let any shrinkage happen before I sew. While heat can break down spandex over time, drying also helps “snap” garments back into shape. If you're concerned about longevity, air-drying is totally fine—but I personally prefer the firming effect of the dryer.

2. Pick patterns with great drape

Avoid structured or boxy patterns. This fabric isn’t going to hold its shape—it’s going to fall and cling beautifully. Think cowl necks, gathered skirts, dolman sleeves, and anything with flow or ruching. Want a twirly circle skirt? This fabric is perfect. Want a stiff boxy tee? Maybe not.

3. Keep your cutting surface flat

Because of its weight, viscose jersey can stretch and distort if any part of it hangs off your cutting table. Keep the entire length of fabric on the table when cutting to avoid the “jump effect” and ensure accurate pattern pieces.

4. Stabilize key seams

Shoulder seams and waist seams are especially prone to stretching out over time. I recommend woven stay tape or clear elastic in shoulders and definitely clear elastic at the waist to allow stretch while maintaining shape. If you’re sewing flowy pants, consider stabilizing the crotch curve with twill tape too!

5. Let hems hang before hemming

Thanks to gravity, viscose jersey hems can stretch and become uneven. Let dresses or skirts hang for 24 hours before trimming and hemming to avoid surprises. This is especially important for circle skirts and anything cut on the bias.

Pattern Spotlight: Cashmerette Irving + Grafton Mash-Up

For this project, I used the top of the Cashmerette Irving* (a fully lined tank dress with optional tie straps) paired with the circle skirt from the Cashmerette Grafton* for maximum twirl. The result is a comfy, chic summer dress that’s cute for lunch with friends or an outdoor concert. And bonus—swap in a cropped cardigan or denim jacket and it transitions beautifully into fall.

If you want to grab either of these patterns and try your own mash up, check the Resources page for additional discount codes!

Viscose spandex jersey can be a dream to sew and wear—if you keep its drapey personality in mind! With a little planning and these five tips, you’ll be ready to create knit garments that feel great and look even better.

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