Precious Fabric Challenge: My Trench Coat Hack Plans

pattern hacking special occasions
TomKat Stitchery Whitney Trench Coat

This month is all about the Precious Fabric Challenge—a fun community sewing event encouraging us to pull out those fabrics we’ve been hoarding and finally put them to use. For my project, I would normally make a wearable muslin before cutting into a precious fabric. But because I’ve sewn this trench coat pattern before, I know it fits well. I’m using my current trench coat it as a base to play with some hacks and design decisions. My goal is to create a jacket that really makes the most of this stunning fabric. Read on or watch here:

 

The Fabric

The fabric I chose is a gorgeous thin wool I picked up from Let’s Sew back in May. It has such a fun, reversible look—deep navy with warm tomato red on one side, and the colors reversed on the other. It immediately struck me as perfect for a jacket, and I’ve been brainstorming ways to use both sides for a bold, Bodenesque effect. You all know I love a good color moment!

Pattern Choice & Community Input

For this project, my YouTube membership community helped narrow down the options. The two finalists were the Itch to Stitch Acari Trench* (to be cropped) and the Pattern Emporium Downtown Jacket*. Both had appeal, but since the Downtown has extra design lines and details that might compete with my busy fabric, I decided to go with the trench.

My community is also voting on design details—things like whether I should add epaulettes, use the contrast side of the fabric for welt pockets, or keep sleeve straps with buttons. It’s been so fun to get their input along the way.


Planned Hacks

Here are the main changes I’m planning for this jacket:

  • Crop the length – I want the finished hem to hit just above the fourth button for a high-hip length.
  • Move the welt pockets – Since cropping would cut right into the original placement, I’ll move them higher up using the same technique as raising a dart.
  • Contrast details – I'm considering the red side of the fabric for the collar stand, facings, or other accents.
  • Streamlined design – I plan to omit extras like the gun shield, rain flap, and belt loops on the body for a cleaner look.
  • Sleeve straps – I may add these back in but with buttons instead of buckles.
  • Lining – I wasn’t going to, but since I want to include shoulder pads and sleeve heads, I’ll add a lining for a more tailored finish.

Why a Wearable Muslin?

Normally, if I hadn’t made this pattern before, I’d run up a muslin in thrifted bed sheets. But since I know this jacket fits beautifully, I’m skipping that step and referring to my current jacket as a wearable muslin instead. It’s the perfect way to test design hacks without feeling like I’m “wasting” precious fabric—especially since this jacket will still be stylish and wearable in the end!


Join the Challenge!

The Precious Fabric Challenge is all about finally sewing with the fabrics we’ve been saving—whether it’s a delicate fiber you’ve been nervous about, something irreplaceable, or a fabric that just feels too special to cut into. Jackets, dresses, bags—anything goes!

I’d love to hear what you’re making. Are you joining in and cutting into some of your long-stashed treasures? Contact Me and share your plans.

*Affiliate links included—thank you for supporting my work! No extra cost to you, but I may earn a commission. Offers may change

Check Out Recent Posts from TomKat Stitchery

Precious Fabric Challenge: My Trench Coat Hack Plans

3 Alternative Ways to Gather Fabric for Sewing

Choosing a Pattern for the Precious Fabric Challenge

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