Sewing a Statement Set: Closet Core Josephine Pattern Review

If you’ve ever packed for a warm-weather trip and thought, “You know what this needs? Rainbow plaid pants,” you’re in the right place. 😄

Today I’m sharing Part Two of my travel capsule wardrobe and the bold, joy-filled two-piece set I added to the mix. (Catch up on my Florida Capsule Wardrobe: The Basics ➡️ HERE) This one is all about color, personality, and smart sewing—plus a few linen lessons learned the hard way (so you don’t have to).  Read on or watch here:

The Color Story: Copper Spring Meets Crayola

My palette is straight from my Copper Spring season—think ivory, blue, golden yellow, orange, red, green… and maybe a little purple just for fun. It’s bright. It’s warm. It’s playful. It’s very Florida-ready.

If you’ve ever worked with Color Guru, you know how powerful it can be to sew within a cohesive seasonal palette. I’m a Copper Spring, and if you want to find your own season, you can use code TOMKATCOLOR* for 10% off.

The goal here? Sew clothes that feel like sunshine. ☀️

The Pattern: Closet Core Josephine Set

I chose the Closet Core Patterns Josephine Set, part of their Crew subscription. This is a two-piece woven set featuring a cropped shell top and wide-leg pants with a distinctive button-front closure.

The Josephine Top

A simple shell silhouette—but beautifully drafted and thoughtfully finished (as I’ve come to expect from Closet Core).

Size & Adjustments:

• Size 12
• 2" Full Bust Adjustment (1" per side)
• Straps shortened by 4"
• Second version lengthened by 1½" for slightly more coverage

Closet Core drafts for a 2" high bust to full bust difference. I have a 4" difference, so that FBA was essential to maintain fit through the upper chest while adding the room I need at my full bust.

The only other tweak? Shortening the straps after basting and testing the fit. Strap length can dramatically affect dart placement and overall comfort, so I always check that before committing.

My first version ended up just a touch shorter than I prefer.  In my next version I’ll keep it cropped, just add some length to the bodice for my own comfort level.

The Josephine Pants

Okay. These are FUN.

The pants feature:

• Fixed waistband
• Overlapping front panel
• Four-button closure (two on each side)
• No zipper
• Deep pockets tucked into the overlap

To get in and out, I unbutton all four buttons and fold down the front panel. It’s clever construction—and surprisingly straightforward to sew.

Adjustments I Made:

• Shortened rise by ½" (front and back)
• Scooped back crotch curve by ⅜"
• Shortened legs by 2"

I also stabilized the waistband seam and crotch curve with twill tape—especially important when sewing with linen, which loves to grow.

A Note on Waist Fluctuation

Because of autoimmune-related waist fluctuation, I often prefer patterns with some flexibility. I’ve made similar styles before with knit panels that accommodate those changes beautifully.

This pattern has a fixed waistband, so I made sure the fit was comfortable. Even so, I expect these to get a lot of wear—especially on days when I’m feeling great.

Linen Lessons (aka What Not to Do with Plaids 😅)

The fabric is a gorgeous plaid linen from Core Fabrics (Closet Core’s sister company). It’s a looser weave, breathable, and absolute happiness in textile form.

But here’s the key takeaway:

👉 If you’re cutting plaid linen… cut single layer.

I matched my stripes at the selvedge when cutting double layer—but because linen can skew easily, the stripes shifted toward the center. One leg matches perfectly. The other is off by about an inch.

Does it bother me? A little.
Will I still wear them constantly? Absolutely.

Linen tips from this project:

• Stabilize high-stress seams with twill tape
• Expect a little growth
• Cut plaid linen in a single layer
• Check alignment beyond the selvedge

Learn from my plaid mistakes. 😄

Styling Possibilities: The Joy Factor

What makes this set capsule-worthy? Versatility.

The top pairs beautifully with my ivory basics plus all the other colors that are featured in the fabric.  Possibly even a stripe (if I’m feeling bold with print mixing)!

The pants? Honestly, they’re basically a neutral—if your definition of neutral is “large-scale rainbow plaid.”

I’ve got red tennis shoes ready. Sandals. So many solid tops. I can already tell these are going to be on heavy rotation while I’m in Florida.

Take This as Your Sign…

Make the bold pants.
Sew the large-scale plaid.
Add the “too much” color.

Because sometimes your travel capsule doesn’t need more beige—it needs Crayola joy.

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