True Bias Rory Romper + Tips for Sewing with Linen

Summer sewing is in full swing, and I’m thrilled to share a recent make that checks all the boxes: lightweight, stylish, easy to wear, and inspired by ready-to-wear. The True Bias Rory Jumpsuit turned out to be the perfect pattern for recreating a look I loved—and it gave me another excuse to sew with my favorite warm-weather fabric: linen! In today’s post, I’m sharing the story behind this romper, details on the pattern and fabric, and two of my tried-and-true linen sewing tips to help you get the most out of this breathable, natural fiber. You can watch the video version here:

Ready-to-Wear Inspiration

This romper started with a Memorial Day weekend shopping trip with my mom and sister. I tried on the cutest red linen romper, but as often happens, it didn’t quite work for my bust. The buttons gaped, and the body was too short—despite my short torso! But even though the fit was off, I loved the look enough to recreate it myself.

As soon as I got home, I searched for a pattern that captured the same style and found exactly what I needed: the True Bias Rory Jumpsuit. This pattern also includes a jumpsuit option, sleeved or sleeveless views, and an optional waist tab detail for shaping. I opted for the sleeveless romper version without waist definition to complement my straight waist and short torso.

Pattern Details + Sizing

• Pattern: True Bias Rory Jumpsuit

• Size Made: 12

• Modifications: None

• Fit Notes: True Bias drafts for a C cup, which usually works for me. I skipped my usual full bust adjustment, and while there’s a slight rise at the front hem due to bust length, it’s nothing major. The generous ease makes it wearable without any gaping!

I finished the neckline facings and armholes with pre-made bias tape from scrap linen in my stash and had a little fun using rainbow serger thread on the inside—such a happy touch for a garment I’ll reach for often.

Honestly, this was a quick and satisfying sew. I cut it out and assembled it with ease, and I’ve already worn it for boating, casual hangouts, and lounging around the house.

Fabric Choice: Robert Kaufman Essex Linen

The romper is made from Robert Kaufman Essex Linen, a warm orangey-red rayon/linen blend that I picked up from Sewing Studio (use code TOMKAT15 for 15% off*)  It's slightly different from the RTW inspiration, which leaned more red than orange, but the effect is still vibrant and summery.

This fabric has a bit more weight and drape than standard 100% linen, thanks to the rayon content. It’s perfect for garments that need structure without being stiff. Essex Linen is one of my go-tos, and you can find discount codes for fabric and patterns on my Resources page.

2 Must-Know Linen Sewing Tips

Whether you’re new to sewing with linen fabric or looking for smarter ways to work with it, here are two of my favorite tricks:

1. Stabilize Seams with Cotton Twill Tape

Linen has a looser weave and tends to “grow” with wear, especially in high-stress areas like shoulder seams, the crotch, and waistbands.

To keep your garment looking crisp:

• Sew ¼” cotton twill tape into the seam allowance of areas that tend to stretch out (like the crotch seam of pants or shoulder seams).

• After stitching the seam, sew the twill tape into the seam allowance.

• Finish with a serger to enclose the tape.

This method is simple and effective—especially for pants or tailored linen garments where shape retention matters. I skip this step for loose pieces like this romper where a little growth is fine.

2. Soften Scratchy Linen with Coca-Cola

Heavy or lower-quality linen can feel rough against the skin. To soften it before sewing:

• Place the fabric in your washing machine.

• Add 2 liters of regular Coca-Cola (not Diet or Zero).

• Fill the rest with water and soak for an hour.

• Drain, then wash with regular detergent.

It’s the citric acid in Coke that helps break down rough fibers. Always test a scrap first, but this method has worked well for both linen and denim in my experience.

Styling + Final Thoughts

I’ve already worn this romper on my friends' boat (as a stylish swimsuit cover-up!), and I plan to throw it on for our weekly summer concert series in the park. It’s light, breathable, and just the right mix of polished and effortless. I can easily layer it with a jacket and sandals as we ease into fall.

The True Bias Rory Jumpsuit is a wonderful warm-weather project—especially if you love clean lines and versatile pieces. Whether you choose a structured waist or a flowy silhouette, it’s a great canvas for linen. Give it a go!

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