This is McCalls 7188. It has been in my stash for quite some time and when I was cleaning up my patterns the other day, it jumped out at me. This pattern is from McCall's customizable fit line that comes with the different cup sizes. I would like to say, on behalf of all the large busted ladies out there, thank you McCall's pattern company for putting out the adjustable cup size patterns. These are GENIUS! The only alterations I had to make were my normal sway back adjustment, shoulder width adjustment and, because of my 5'2" stature, skirt length adjustment. I am surprised how much I love this pattern! As you can see, the pattern artwork is very juvenile:
In fact, I'm not sure what made me purchase this pattern in the first place (probably the customizable bust sizes), but it just goes to show the importance of looking at line art instead of the styling on the front.
Now as to the fabric, I made a resolution to myself to sew strictly from my very sizable stash this year. The only new fabric purchases I'm allowing myself this year, are linings and any other supplies needed for a particular project. Otherwise, all fabric is coming from the stash. Therefore, a quick glance at the stash revealed this gorgeous wool herringbone that I believe was originally purchased to become a pea coat for my son. It fit this pattern perfectly.
It is very warm and snuggly and is perfect for the winter.
Now as to the construction, I went all out with this one. Because the pattern was pretty simple and straight forward, I decided to use some of my couture arsenal for the inside. The structure that was built into the inside of this dress will ensure that it lasts and holds it shape for years to come.
Here are the insides of the dress before the lining was attached:
I underlined the entire dress with a lightweight muslin to stabilize the looser weave herringbone. I also drafted and added pockets to the pattern, because pockets.
The neckline and armholes were all stabilized with silk organza strips. This will ensure that the openings don't stretch out over time and keep their shape.
Finally, because my fabric was a little on the bulky side, I secured all my seam allowances with a catch stitch. This will ensure that the seam allowances always stay open and flat and don't create awkward bulges across my chest.
The lining was a silk charmeuse that I also had in my stash. When I purchased it, it was white with black dots. However, when I went to give it a prewash a pink piece wound up in the batch, and well . . . you can see the results. It's not what I originally intended when I bought it, but it makes the greatest, softest lining!
Also, because I wanted a deep hem for weight and because the hem is curved, I drafted a 4" facing which was interfaced with silk organza. The lining was put in by hand with a fell stitch.
I used the fell stitch around the zipper as well, since I decided upon an exposed zipper.
Speaking of the exposed zipper, I love this one! It's a vintage metal zipper that I got in a huge sack of zippers that a friend picked up at a garage sale. Isn't the color amazing?
Basically, I am really pleased with this dress. There are a couple of fit issues that I will correct with the next one I make, which is pretty typical. I find that it usually takes me about 3 makes to get the fit "perfect." That being said, this dress will be worn a lot. I think it will be very versatile and fun to style. While I have it styled with my Seamwork Neenah turtleneck here, it could easily be worn over a button down or with a cardigan.
Speaking of the turtleneck, I was skeptical about wearing one. I have a short neck so have shied away from them in the past. However, they have been popping up in my fashion feeds everywhere so I thought I would give it a shot. I chose the Seamwork Neenah pattern. I have been a subscriber of Seamwork since the beginning and find many of their patterns to truly be quick and easy basics. This was no different. It's actually supposed to be a dress, but was easily shortened into a top. I made it up in a fantastic viscose jersey. It was a remnant from another project and I had just enough to eek out this top. Does anyone else get giddy when they are able to get a second garment out of one cut of fabric?
I think that's about all for me to say about this pattern. I love it and will probably make another one in the coming months for summer. We'll see! On that note, I will leave you with some pics of me in the dress. Please excuse the wrinkles. I had been wearing it all day when these pics were taken!
Until next time!